So, 2014 Volt, 3.5 months old, 4500 miles. In the last 4 days, the Nav system has hung up with a frozen screen and no activity. First two times the screen said 'Navigation Initialization'. Turning the car off, opening the door and leaving (to go to work, home, Etc) 'fixed' the problem. Yesterday, while looking for an address 'Waypoint saved' showed up and would not budge. I had time, so I called OnStar, got the volt advisor and got the turn off the car, open door for a minute reset procedure. I did it, it worked.but.
Advisor says there is nothing to worry about.Ok, but:What is going on? Is the software that buggy? Is it getting inputs it does not know how to handle? Is there no watchdog timer or dead man circuit? Is this a nuisance, a problem or A PROBLEM? I've had problems with the Nav system in my 2013 Volt pretty much since day 1.The first problem was encountered several months into ownership in 2013.
The navigation display would continuously rotate in cirlces, non-stop. A software update at the dealership seem to take care of that problem. Seemed like the compass was not finding its bearing and continuously spinning as a result.The second problem, which started soon after the first problem was fixed, and which is still on-going today, is somewhat intermittent in nature. The Nav system quite often never makes it past the 'Initializing' screen. Sometimes the Nav system initiates just fine, but more often than not it freezes at the Initialization stage. This makes my car's Nav system pretty much useless and unreliable.
I bring along a portable Garmin if I need directions somewhere.Some have suggested the Nav system may be looking for locations, updates, etc. From the Sirius XM radio service, but I do not believe that is the problem. I subscribe to XM but not the add-on packages.I believe problems do arise if one launches the Navigation system but happens to be out of reach of the satellites due to tree cover or driving along side a large box truck that blocks the line of site. I've noticed this seems to lock up the Nav system and it does not recover until the next re-boot.I seem to have better luck with initialization if I launch the Nav system while stopped and in Park (and in-line of satellites), rather than driving down the road. But even then, it very frequently does not initialize.It is not that convenient for me to drop the car off at the dealership for a day of troubleshooting, but I guess that is what I will have to do.
If the update has a green “YOU MUST LOAD DVD” sticker on the back: The update you received is considered a “baseline” update and is sent to all dealers. It is necessary to run this update to install certain software updates. If this update is not installed, the EPC data will become stale as the online updates are not able to be completed. When you are in areas where the carrier's coverage offers 3G or less, you may experience reduced performance or interruptions of your Internet service. Don't worry, though, it's not a problem with your hotspot and your service will continue like normal once you reenter an area with the required coverage.
THANKS!(Are there any special codes or secret handshakes or magic bulletins I can refer to?)Well not really. Just bring it in describing almost any concern with the Nav radio, and it's getting fully reprogrammed as a first step.There was a bulletin specific to the 2014 issues though.Do a search on here for PI1114 as this has been discussed previously. There is also another bulletin PI1100 which affects both 2013 and 14 models where the GPS signal is intermittently lost (freezing or blanking the screen) due to a potential USB cable connection issue identified, but they may not even pursue that unless the software updates don't resolve the concern.WOT. I guess it's nice to not be the only one with issues related to the Nav. I hope the software update works for you. I had mine updated two weeks ago.
When I bought my car in January it would do similar things to what you are describing every single time the Navigation was used. After the software update it was much improved.in that it only does it 2 out of 3 times or so. My issues seem to be independent of having anything plugged into the USB port.Your initial issues are less than mine so hopefully the software update will be a full success for you. For anyone contemplating a Volt, avoid the nav system at all costs. Mine on my 2013 Volt has been quirky and inaccurate every since I got it.
I have ben told to make a U turn on a concrete wall divided highway at 100KM/h. In areas I know well, it often takes me well out of my way to get to my destination. It is way overpriced when you consider the upgrades you need to get to have it. For a recent long road trip I bought a plug in unit from a major manufacturer for the car I was going to rent. It hands down beat the Volt's nav system and cost less than $300.
That includes voice activation and lifetime free map updates. I love my Volt, but cannot understand how GM, with all of its resources, can put out such a poor product.
Ditto to the above. I also bought a 2013 Volt with Nav system - malfunctioned right from the start and had to bring it back to the dealer at least 5 or 6 times. They ended up replacing the Nav system twice. It doesn't seem to do the freezing/restarting as much anymore, but the reliability/functionality of the navigation system is awful.
I ended up buying a Garmin GPS with lifetime updates - very accurate, and I don't have to take my Volt back to the dealer over and over. Gave up on Sirius - got way too expensive and I only listed to maybe 4 or 5 of the stations routinely. I prefer the podcasts and streaming music from my phone - but wait! Trying to stream through the Volt entertainment system by Bluetooth is equally buggy.
Very disappointed that I spent the extra money on these features - it wasn't worth it!!!!! The recognized problem with the usb is not from normal usage. The problem arises when owner uses USB to charge a devise and then disconnect the devise from the cable leaving the cable plugged in connected to nothing.
These cables are 2 way cables and when nothing is connected it is possible the cable acts as antenna and sends random signals to the car confusing the computer module. My Equinox froze solid, camera froze, even buttons did not work. After door close reset all was fine and has been in the many months since with no cable attached to USB without a devise connected. Well, I just brought home a used 2013 Volt 2 days ago. It does not have NAV. But the stereo locked up the first night. I went in and accidentally clicked on 'scan stations' and so it went into this mode where it started scanning and was taking a while.
![Gm Epc Has Experienced A Problem And Must Reset Navigation Gm Epc Has Experienced A Problem And Must Reset Navigation](/uploads/1/2/5/5/125518502/626818967.jpg)
So I clicked 'cancel' and then it locked up. I turned the car off after about 10 minutes to see if that would help. Nope, car came right back to the same screen. I couldn't even change the volume on the radio and no buttons on the dash worked at all. I had to go pull the 12V power lead from the battery to get it to reset.
It hasn't happened again. Hope that is the last time.
![Gm epc has experienced a problem and must reset navigation windows 10 Gm epc has experienced a problem and must reset navigation windows 10](/uploads/1/2/5/5/125518502/701374379.png)
Well, I just brought home a used 2013 Volt 2 days ago. It does not have NAV. But the stereo locked up the first night. I went in and accidentally clicked on 'scan stations' and so it went into this mode where it started scanning and was taking a while. So I clicked 'cancel' and then it locked up. I turned the car off after about 10 minutes to see if that would help. Nope, car came right back to the same screen.
I couldn't even change the volume on the radio and no buttons on the dash worked at all. I had to go pull the 12V power lead from the battery to get it to reset. It hasn't happened again. Hope that is the last time.Get thee to a dealer stating almost ANY radio concern. (lock-up or freeze-up is fine)There have been significant updates to the MyLink radios.They will need to perform a USB transfer to update the firmware first.
Then perform an SPS service operation via the X84 data link connector using the MDI. As long as they have their Infotainment DVD cache in order it shouldn't take more than 1/2 an hour. (otherwise it may take an hour to download AND and an hour to upload the USB files to the car)Let us know if the issue persists and/or if you seek treatment.;)WOT. I was driving home from work 2 days ago and the nav system began to to indicate my car was in Biscayne bay while I was driving on an expressway in Florida. Now my car's nav system always indicates it is stationary in Warren Michigan at a GM tech center and there is an icon that indicates no gps signal on the map. This is the first problem I have had with the nav system in my 2013 volt and I am not sure what to try to resolve the issue short of going to the dealer. There have been no updates to the car's software and this just happened suddenly.
The no gps icon indicates that there is no signal lock on any of the 3 satellites it apparently uses. Any suggestions about troubleshooting the issue?
I doubt if there is anything you can do. I would contact your Volt advisor first. Mine seems to know more than the dealer. In my opinion the nav system is the weakest part of the Volt. With Garmin's latest only a few hundred dollars with free lifetime updates, paying thousands for the package that had the nav system was a big mistake for me.I can laugh now, but the craziest situation I had with the nav was when the display did a 360 degree turn about every 5 seconds.
Very distracting on the highway. The dealer fixed it quickly. But there have been a few other issues that the dealer knew about, but did not contact me. They waited for me to bring the problem to them.
So, take it in. Thanks 1RiverMan1. I have an 8 year old Garmin that is still working perfectly in my wifes truck, and may have to resort to using it in the volt. The car I traded for the the volt was a 2006 Honda civic with navi and I had zero problems with that system ( or anything else in the vehicle) in 8 years and about 100k miles, even though it was a DVD based nav system. I hate to go back to a dealer, but you are probably right. I guess these cars just aren't very reliable after a few years. This will be the first car I have had to get repaired sinced I owned a Saab back in the 80s.
After that I switched to Japanese vehicles (mazda, toyota,honda) and needed 0 repairs. Sorry for the negativity, I was hoping the volt would be as reliable as my previous vehicles, but I guess this is not the case, probably due partially to its complexity. I can only hope the issue is easily remedied without having to replace the radio, or some component that will create more rattles in the interior. I apologize to the group for my previous post. I bought an extended warranty with my volt for 4 years or 60000 miles and this problem with the nav showed up at 64000 miles. I am trying to see if there is anything I can test in the nav system before bringing it to the dealer.
From what I can find searching the internet, the problem is either the radio software, radio hardware, or an issue with the antenna ( or cable). I was wondering if anyone new of a way to narrow down the problem. It appears the base of the antenna is used for the sat/xm reception and the removable 'mast' is used for am/fm and maybe cell? I was wondering if there is an inline signal amplifier associated with the nav that could be bad or something else that could be tested without removing the radio. Any information would be helpful.
Did your car suddenly became really slow on acceleration and at the same time, it seems like it will not rev past 2500-3000 RPM while the engine light is flashing on your dashboard?Then your car was most likely in a condition called Limp Mode, and you are reading the right article to solve this problem.However, why does this happen and how expensive will it be to repair my car? You may think.In this article, I will teach you everything you have to know about the function called limp home mode, to make sure that you will be able to fix your car as soon as possible in a painless way. What is Limp mode? Limp mode is a security function for your engine and transmission. When the engine or has recognized a serious faulty parameter from the engine or transmission, the car will go into limp mode.
The limp mode does often reduce the power and limit the RPM of the engine so you can drive your car to a workshop without damaging the engine.For example, Your is detecting that your turbo boost pressure is 2.0 bar when the maximum should be 1.3 bar. Overboost may damage your pistons or other internal parts fast. Because many car owners do not care enough about the engine light, the does sets itself into limp mode and shut off the turbo boost completely and put a max RPM limit to 3000 RPM’s, to make sure that you won’t blow or damage any engine parts.In the video below, you will get in-depth information about what limp mode is.
The video is specific for truck diesel engines, but the video will get detailed information for all car models. Limp Mode SymptomsThe purpose of the Limp mode function is to get you to the workshop in the safest way without damaging any engine components on the way to the workshop.
Different car manufacturers design different kinds of limp modes to save your engine. The common characteristics of limp mode may differ a bit, depending on the problem with your engine/ and depending on which car and engine you have.Here are some of the most common symptoms when it comes to limp mode. Reduced Engine Power / Turbo boost shut off completely. RPM Limit Lowered.
Your Automatic Transmission is “stuck” in a gear/limited to max 3rd gear. /Half engine light/(Volkswagen) is flashingIf you experience all of these symptoms, your car is for sure in Limp mode and it has to get fixed as soon as possible. Possible CausesDown below, you will find the most common things that usually causes the limp home mode. As you see, I do only mention the issues in general.The reason for this is that limp mode could be caused by a lot of different engine components in your engine bay. Therefore, the solution for this is to read the trouble code memory with an to find the problem before you are replacing any!Here is a list of different possible causes of limp-mode. Engine boost control, Overboost/Underboost.
Faulty. Faulty engine components. Engine wiring issues.
Transmission issues. Transmission wiring issues. Brake system wiring issuesLimp Mode Troubleshooting Table.
Clinton GreggHi Robert,Try unplugging the cruise control switch on on the brake pedal.My cruise control control module is a integral part of the Engine Control Module or ECM.You may need to send your ECM out for repairs and recalibration.Remember there are only three parts to a drive by wire system. Throttle pedal, electronic throttle body and the ECM. Most likely the cruise control circuit has malfunctioned and is keeping you in limp mode.I removed the cruise control switch and the engine roared back to life in drive. That’s when I discovered I had a bad bearing in the transfer case.Limp mode was preventing me from seeing this problem. In limp mode I didn’t have the power to climb a short hill. Limp mode disabled the torque converter and prevented the car from gaining enough speed to overcome the hill.Very aggravating.Hope this helps.Clinton Gregg.
AnonymousI drive a 2013 Honda Civic Si sedan. I don’t know exactly if this is considered limp mode but, the first time I experienced this was after I got a stage 1 clutch installed.
My CEL, VSA, Power steering light all came on. I was driving about 65 mph and then my gas pedal stopped working. I was able to down shift and up shift in my car but that was it. Gas pedal stopped. My speed was also decreasing slowly.
But what caused it when I checked and inspected was a loose oil drain plug which I tightened it then my lights went away and I was able to drive as normal. But then again it happened but this time it wasn’t an oil drain plug. I just let the car sit then went to research on what it could be but I’m seeing that I need a tune because my stage 1 clutch is not OEM. Could this be it?. JcI own a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage de 1.5 “automatic” that recently went into limp mode. I took it to the mechanic to get it checked out.
They put the one scanner in order to read the codes. The codes came out to be the transmission shift solenoid. I bought all five shift solenoids used of eBay! The mechanic installed the part today with new transmission oil, he test out the car and end up going back into limp mode!? What could be the issue now, if the part got replaced!?
The mechanic told me that it might be the transmission that needs to be replaced!? I’ve been the second owner!? Please help:/. @JcYou should read the trouble code memory again and check if you have a trouble code on the shift solenoids again. It does also matter a lot of the trouble code is saying an electric or mechanical fault. If the shift solenoids are replaced, and it does still say “Electric fault shift solenoid”, the problem is most likely in the wirings or the transmission control unit. You can measure up the shift solenoids function with a diagnostic scanner and try them manually to make sure they work as they should.If the trouble code says mechanical fault, it can be dirty oil or clogged up a transmission and you have to inspect it further, which can end up with a transmission replacement in the worst case!.
@Heather L BryantI would recommend you to erase the trouble code and start it again to see which trouble codes that would get triggered first.Now the trouble codes depend a lot of the O2 sensor says lean mixture or electric fault etc.In this case, there could be a problem with the crankshaft sensor, O2 sensor (Depending on what trouble code it have). The misfires can be caused by a faulty Crankshaft sensor or O2 sensor. It can also be caused by an intake leak around the intake.But if you have a scanner, erase the trouble codes and check if the crankshaft sensor trouble code or the O2 sensor code appears first. If you have O2 sensor “lean mixture” trouble code and the misfires, I would start to check for any intake leaks around the intake and the hoses. StephenHave a 2001 mercedes sprinter (diesel/manual) that constantly goes into limp mode around 80 degrees on temp gauge.No codes ever show up on the scanner (obd2) and have replaced radiator hose, turbo sensor, air and oil filters.Im at my wits end with this thing as it goes great for a few weeks and then bam back to limp mode.I also cant3get the glow plug light to go out.Any help would be great as the town I live in doesn’t have a mechannic that will touch it – apparently its all too hard work (lazy smucks) and the authorized place wants to charge me 8 grand!!.
@StephenDid you try with any other scanner to see the codes? If your car feels a bit low on power before the limp mode occurs, I would start to check for any boost pipe leaks and the function of the turbo system. Check that the wastegate arm on the turbo moves freely and that the vacuum hoses is okay.But however, when this occurs, there should be trouble codes stored and it’s probably just the scanner that cant read then.
The best bet here would be to try another if possible, one that can read enhanced trouble codes would be the best ?. BRENT H.I have a 2012 Nissan Altima with 182,000 and the battery light and ABS light are both on and the check engine light sometimes blinks but sometimes goes off. The cars keeps going into limp mode. Brought it to Nissan and was informed it was a misfire on cylinder 2.
Replaced the coil pack on that cylinder. Ran better temporarily but when it went back to limp mode brought it back to Nissan and now its giving a code concerning the catalytic converter. It seems that the batter is having trouble recharging. Already swapped alternators but upon being told my core was good i swapped them back. I purchased Cataclean (auto zone manager recommend it) and added it to a 1/4 tank as instructed but after starting it and attempting to drive it it rapidly went into limp mode and then killed.
Wont restart. Should i replace the catalytic converter considering it seems like a battery issue more than a cat. My faith in Nissan is almost gone due to them not finding the cat code during the 1st scan plus the fact that i heard Nissan merged with Fiat and Renault years ago and ive heard they are both junk. Please help cause im almost ready to just sell the damn car to a junkyard and not buy another Nissan. Nate Stewart2001 Honda Passport LX 4×4Codes – p1125, p1295, p1515Stuck in Limp modeI couldn’t get car to start unless I feathered gas pedal and stayed on the gas to keep rpm’s up. I figured it was just the Throttle Position Sensor, I changed it, and now the car will at least idle without me having to use the gas but even after clearing the codes I couldn’t get it out of limp mode and then the same 3 codes came back up a while later. I even tried disconnecting battery cable for an hour then reattaching.
About to change the fuel filter as a last resort. I just really don’t believe its the PCM, that would be just so bizarre. Only other thought is something funky with the wiring somewhere, but I couldn’t find anything obvious. This vehicle had it’s transmission rebuilt, also had to throw another engine in it as well.
I did notice some burning smell coming from the wheels while driving it before, but figured it was just brakes riding or the little plate behind the rotors riding on the rotors, but not sure if that burning smell maybe something else now. Thanks for any advice you may have!. SteveA friend of mine wants to give me his 2004 Nissan Murano. They have told me that usually in summer, and not very often, the car will not move at all from a complete stop for 20-30 seconds, then it just takes off and it’s fine. Never one engine light or codes. No mechanic has found the problem and I believe replacing the throttle body was the only part replaced so far. My only clue is it happens in hotter ambient temperatures.
Tranny overheating? I am worried about using it for a daily driver. StanI have a Ford Transit Diesel. Fault codes for DPF and DPF temperature sensor bank 1.
The vehicle was running on limp mode during this time. I have removed and clean out the DPF and put back on to the vehicle but the limp mode still there. However I have re scanned and now fault code for temperature sensor now came up. I then removed the sensor and cleaned out and put back to the vehicle but now received a different symptom.
The vehicle only starts and run for 3 to 4 seconds and shut it self off. It will take up to one or two hours may be longer to re start again but only run for 3 to 4 seconds. Please help. Joe TursiI have a 2017 Kia Soul that has gone into limp mode three times,the first two happened right after filling my tank and the mechanic though I had to have topped off the gas tank.I may have but I don’t think so. The first time it started up the following morning. The second time I had it towed to a dealer and it must have started right up the following morning ( that’s when the mechanic assumed I had topped it off ) the third time I was nowhere near a fuel pump and I was at the ranch when, for so train, it went into limp mode and stayed the following am.
I had it towed once more and for the last three days the mechanics have been trying to get it to go into limp mode again. Apparently the can’t find any coded in the computer that would indicate specific problems Help!!!. DiegoHi from South Africa: (Sorry for the long story.)I know I make a mistake buying a Scenic 2004 1.9dci but was cheap with a lot of space for my 2 small boys. Then slowly start fixing it, done: the Motor, the turbo, the injectors & turbo hose pipe, put new mass air sensor, clean the boost pressure sensor. And still have no power, meaning I press the accelerator hard and no power is like the motor is starving, at any uphill need to go down to second even first gear to make it. Done the diagnosis last time and the boost pressure sensor is in fault and can’t get it to clear.Could that fault be the cause of the Scenic not giving me any power when I accelerate on 3rd or more?
& why the motor die on the uphills? I can’t believe the problem is in the Hi pressure diesel pump. I did specialist check the diesel filter & injectors & they are ok. They want to charge me ZAR 4000 = $ 285 just to check the diesel pump and to repair it ZAR 8500 = $ 600First how do I know that they will be honest enough and say the pump was ok after testing it, they can easy say that is not pumping properly to make more money and I will have to believe it. But imagine If I can save in time $600 to do the pump, then after they put the pump back, there is no improvement at all in the scenic. What would you do?I insist it could be a bad contact wire.
May be the on board computer sense a error in the system(boost pressure sensor) and don’t let the diesel pump supply the right amount of diesel for the equal position of the accelerator. I promise, while you are driving (slowly) push the accelerator and no reaction, nothing happen, is so frustrating I can’t explain it. I stop a year ago taking the children to school with the Scenic as I was embarrass going in the uphill of the school in first gear to get to the entrance while all other dad’s overtaking me and hoot without understand that is not my fault.
Save some money done the injectors and still the same. Now I need it in case it rains to go to a new job (I usually drive a motorbike) What can I do next?Any suggestions?
(except putting petrol on it and burn it).Thank you. ShanHi from S Africa.
My mazda 6 2007 has had a complete engine overhaul. Mini cath in place. Radiator, starter and alterntor replaced. While in motion, not always, it occurs that the car suddenly goes into limp mode. Engine is running but no acceleration. Engine management light is on.
Sometimes it occurs that the same occurs, but the car just switches off and stalls. I then have to ooen the bonnet, remove the battery terminal lead, wait 20 seconds then put back, start the car abd go. But the problem occurs again at any time without any warning. Fault code sats ecu, but had that checked and shows no problem.
Does not occur when idling. Larry2004 honda civic check engine light is on not flashing, RPM not reading, temperature gauge not reading, green key flashing, car starts,runs at reduced speed no power,hooked up odb ll won’t read codes, I was backing out of my driveway car started acting funny, smoke came up from under the hood I pulled back up in the driveway shut the car off open the hood and belt for alternator an AC was burnt off the AC pulley froze up I took belt off and got a replacement belt without AC started the car up and my results I written above. Zainool KhanI have a BT 50 MADZA the power train light come on when driving long distances or going up an incline (hill) The vehicle goes into limp mode but get off the limp mode if I stop and restart the engine I scanned for codes and the only code that is generated is the P00BD Code. The only thing that was done to the vehicle before having this problem was changing the oil and filter and diesel fuel filter.The intercooler boost hose was also changed because it was burst.Any help will be much appreciated. I have a 12 bmw 335i e92 coupe with full bolt on. When im accelerating in stock form i can floor it constantly and not have a problem at all.but when i put on jb4 piggyback and i accelerate hard then here comes limp mode and even the winsheild wipers come on!
I thought the jb4 was the problem so i took it off and then took it to Dinan for stage three ECU flash.drive out of the parking lot try to do a forty roll and guess what.limp mode again.this is baffeling me, Dinan performance and my mechanic. In stock form with no extra boost hp or torque with full bolt on it is smooth sailing like a rocket but would be nice if i could run a tune and it not go into limp mode!
This is also almost impossible to log because of course when i cut the car off and restart it will erase the log because its just fine then after say 15 seconds and will drive fine unless i accelerate a little hard.then limp modeplease help if you got any ideas please.thanks. ClaudeHi,I own a 2002 Mitsubishi l200 diesel 4d56, with a injector fuel pump p/n; MR577077 wich is an electronic control fuel pump, so my problem is that the pick up goes in to limp mode, and have a engine check light on, I read the trouble code and it show only one, 18, fuel pump speed sensor, my question is; is it posible to replace the fuel pump speed sensor on that specific fuel pump model? Or any maintenance will fix my problem? Didn t find much solution wise on the net!thanks for your help!.